What Does AC Installation Cost in Seattle?

Last updated: May 26, 2026

Central AC installation in Seattle, WA costs $4,500 to $8,500 fully installed in 2026, with most 1,500 to 2,200 square foot homes paying $5,200 to $6,800 for a 15 SEER2 system. Ducted heat pumps, which dominate Seattle's market because of mild winters and Climate Zone 4C heating loads, run $7,000 to $13,000 installed. Ductless mini-split installations for older Seattle homes without existing ducts land at $4,000 to $9,000 for the first two zones. Seattle pricing sits about 8 to 12% below the national median for central AC because of shorter cooling seasons and smaller equipment sizing, but rises 15 to 25% above the national median for heat pumps because of NEEA-driven cold-climate specifications and Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections permitting overhead. The single biggest cost decision in Seattle is not equipment brand but whether to install AC-only or upgrade to a heat pump that handles both cooling and the bulk of winter heating, which the broader Seattle HVAC cost guide covers across all system types.

$4,500 – $13,000
Average: $7,200
Seattle AC and heat pump installation, fully installed (2026)
Estimated ranges based on national averages. Actual costs vary by provider, location, and scope of work.

What a Seattle AC installation actually includes in the price

A fully installed Seattle AC quote should itemize equipment, labor, materials, permits, electrical work, refrigerant charging, and commissioning. When a contractor gives you a single round number with no breakdown, the quote is concealing either margin or scope gaps that will surface as change orders mid-install. The Washington State Department of Labor and Industries requires written estimates for any project over $1,000, and Seattle municipal code requires a permit and inspection for every AC condenser or air handler replacement, so the line items below should appear on every legitimate quote.

Equipment accounts for roughly 50 to 60% of the installed total in Seattle. A 2.5-ton 15 SEER2 condenser from Carrier, Trane, Rheem, Goodman, Bryant, or York lands at local distributors such as Gensco in Tukwila or Johnstone Supply on Andover Park West at $2,200 to $3,400 wholesale; a matched evaporator coil and variable-speed air handler add $850 to $1,500; line sets, copper, R-454B or R-32 refrigerant charged to manufacturer specification (R-410A is being phased out under EPA Section 608 with the 2025 AIM Act transition), a fused disconnect, an Aspen condensate pump where slope is not available, and code-compliant overflow safety switches add $400 to $850 in materials. Seattle homes built before 1990 commonly need a panel evaluation; if the 100-amp service has no spare double-pole breaker slot, a subpanel or service upgrade adds $1,200 to $3,500 to the project.

Labor for two L&I-credentialed installers across a one-day Seattle swap runs $1,400 to $2,400. The Seattle SDCI mechanical permit costs $128 to $215 depending on equipment tonnage and whether the work includes refrigerant lines or ductwork modifications, and the post-install inspection adds three to six business days to the project timeline. The Washington State Energy Code (WSEC) requires ACCA Manual J load calculations for every new system install in residential construction, and the inspector will ask for the load report at final. A startup commissioning sequence, including static pressure measurement, refrigerant superheat and subcooling verification, supply and return temperature split documentation, and Manual J versus equipment-output reconciliation, runs $200 to $400 and should appear as a separate line.

Seattle AC installation line items, 2026
ComponentLowTypicalHigh
Outdoor condenser (2 to 4 ton, 15 SEER2)$2,200$2,800$3,400
Indoor coil and variable-speed air handler$850$1,150$1,500
Line set, copper, refrigerant, disconnect$400$600$850
L&I installer labor (1 day, 2 techs)$1,400$1,800$2,400
SDCI mechanical permit and inspection$128$160$215
Manual J load calculation and commissioning$200$325$400
Electrical panel upgrade (when needed)$1,200$2,100$3,500
Ductwork modification (when needed)$650$1,400$3,200

Compare this breakdown to the equipment-only pricing used by big-box installers and the gap usually shows up in permitting, commissioning, and electrical scope. A $3,800 craigslist-priced bare condenser swap done without a permit, without Manual J, and without panel verification fails Seattle inspection and voids the AHRI matched-system warranty, which is the most expensive way to save money on this project.

Why Seattle's climate makes AC sizing unusually tricky

Seattle sits in ASHRAE Climate Zone 4C, the Marine subtype, with cooling design temperatures around 85°F dry bulb and 65°F wet bulb. For comparison, Phoenix design cooling sits at 110°F and Houston at 95°F with much higher dew points. The result is that Seattle homes need substantially less cooling capacity than national sizing rules of thumb suggest, and oversized equipment is the single most common installation error in the metro. A correctly sized Seattle home of 2,000 square feet with reasonable insulation and shading usually needs 1.5 to 2.5 tons of cooling capacity, not the 3 to 3.5 tons that a square-footage-only estimate would specify.

Oversized AC short-cycles. The compressor runs for three to five minutes, hits setpoint, and shuts down before the evaporator coil drops the indoor humidity. In Seattle's marine-influenced summer, indoor relative humidity already runs higher than continental cities, so a short-cycling oversized unit leaves the house feeling cold and clammy rather than dry and cool. It also fails earlier: contactor wear, capacitor failure, and compressor start-current fatigue all accelerate with cycling frequency. The national AC installation cost guide covers oversizing failures in more detail, but the Seattle-specific finding is that contractors who do not run a printed Manual J will default to the largest tonnage the panel can support, which is almost always too much.

The 2021 Pacific Northwest heat dome, which pushed Seattle to a record 108°F at Sea-Tac on June 28 and held above 100°F for three consecutive days, changed the design conversation. Many homeowners installed AC reactively in 2022 and 2023, sometimes oversized in anticipation of future heat domes. The honest engineering answer is that even with two to three multi-day heat events per decade, a properly sized 2 to 2.5 ton system handles the 95th-percentile Seattle summer; sizing for the 99.9th-percentile heat dome creates a system that short-cycles for the other 360 days a year.

How to size an AC for a Seattle home

A correct Manual J starts with envelope inputs: orientation, window area and U-value, wall and attic insulation R-values, infiltration measured or estimated through ACH50, and internal gains from occupants and appliances. For a 1980 Seattle Craftsman in Wallingford with original single-pane windows, R-11 walls, and R-19 attic, the cooling load is often 1.8 tons; the same square footage in a 2015 ENERGY STAR-certified Greenwood townhouse with double-pane low-e windows and R-21 walls might come in at 1.2 tons. Without Manual J, you cannot tell the difference, and the resulting AC sizing error compounds across the equipment lifecycle.

Seattle's solar gain pattern matters more than national sizing rules acknowledge. West-facing rooms in West Seattle, Magnolia, and along the Lake Washington shore in Madison Park pick up direct afternoon sun without the cloud cover that dampens midday loads. Homeowners with significant west-facing glass often need 0.5 ton more capacity than the basic Manual J would specify, or they need to address the glass with low-e film, exterior shading, or interior cellular shades before sizing the equipment.

Attic temperature in Seattle peaks around 125°F on a July afternoon, considerably lower than the 140°F that Sun Belt attics hit, but high enough that supply duct losses in a typical 1960s Beacon Hill ranch can reach 20 to 30% of system capacity. ACCA Manual D for duct design, paired with Manual J, addresses this. If your contractor does not mention either by name in the quote conversation, the sizing exercise has been skipped. Ask for the printed Manual J output and the duct static pressure measurement from the existing system before signing.

What SEER2 rating actually makes sense for Seattle

Federal minimum SEER2 for new central AC in the northern US is 14.3 (replacing the old 14 SEER metric in 2023). Washington state aligns with federal minimums; there is no state-imposed efficiency floor above the federal baseline. The practical question is whether to pay the upcharge to 16 SEER2, 18 SEER2, or premium two-stage and variable-speed equipment.

The cooling-season hours in Seattle that drive utility-bill savings from higher SEER2 are roughly 600 to 900 per year, compared to 2,200 to 2,800 in Phoenix and 1,800 to 2,300 in Houston. The shorter season compresses the payback math. A 16 SEER2 system at $1,000 more than 14.3 SEER2 might save $80 to $130 per year in Seattle cooling costs, returning the upgrade in 8 to 12 years. The 18 SEER2 upgrade at $2,200 above baseline returns in 15 to 20 years, frequently longer than the equipment lifecycle.

The exception is heat pumps. A high-efficiency heat pump rated to HSPF2 9.0 or higher pays back faster in Seattle because the heating-season runtime is far higher than the cooling-season runtime. NEEA's Northwest Heat Pump program and the federal 25C tax credit (up to $2,000 for qualifying heat pumps installed through 2032) both reward the higher-tier equipment for heat pump installs but not for cooling-only AC. If you are installing AC-only in Seattle, 14.3 to 15.2 SEER2 is the rational tier. If you are installing a heat pump, push for HSPF2 9.0+ and a SEER2 of 16 or higher because the heating-season utility savings carry the math.

Refrigerant transition matters for 2026 quotes. The EPA AIM Act phaseout of R-410A is in effect, and new systems sold in 2026 use R-32 or R-454B (A2L mildly flammable refrigerants that require contractor certification updates and slightly different line-set practices). A quote that still specifies R-410A on new equipment may be from existing inventory and is acceptable in 2025 holdover stock, but verify the model number against the AHRI directory at ahridirectory.org before signing.

Heat pump versus central AC plus furnace in Seattle

Seattle is the strongest heat pump market in the contiguous US for honest physics reasons: winter design temperature is 27°F, well within the efficient operating range of modern cold-climate heat pumps; cooling season is short and mild; and electricity rates from Seattle City Light run about 12 cents per kWh, well below the national average. The same heat pump that struggles to pay back in Minneapolis or Buffalo pays back in 5 to 9 years in Seattle.

A central AC plus gas furnace replacement in Seattle costs $7,500 to $13,000 fully installed (the AC portion plus a new 95% AFUE furnace and combustion air work). A ducted heat pump that handles both heating and cooling costs $9,000 to $14,000 installed. The premium for the heat pump is $1,500 to $2,500, and the federal 25C tax credit of $2,000 plus a Puget Sound Energy or Seattle City Light rebate of $1,200 to $1,800 can erase the premium entirely.

The trade-off lives in extreme cold weather. Cold-climate heat pumps from Mitsubishi (Hyper-Heat H2i), Fujitsu, LG, Bosch IDS, Trane XV20i, and Carrier Infinity all maintain rated capacity to 5°F or lower, and Seattle's design winter rarely drops below 20°F. Backup heat in a Seattle heat pump install is typically 5kW to 10kW of electric resistance that engages only during the rare cold snap; some installations retain the existing gas furnace as a dual-fuel backup, which adds $400 to $900 in controls and configuration but provides resilience during winter storm outages when the heat pump's outdoor unit might be iced over.

If your existing furnace is under 10 years old and in good condition, an AC-only addition makes financial sense and the broader furnace installation cost guide can help you plan the eventual heating-system replacement separately. If your furnace is 15+ years old or your home does not have natural gas service, the heat pump is the rational choice even before counting the climate-policy upside.

Seattle and Washington state rebates and tax credits

Three rebate stacks layer on a Seattle AC or heat pump installation. The federal 25C Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit covers 30% of project cost up to $2,000 for qualifying heat pumps (HSPF2 8.1+, SEER2 15.2+, EER2 10+ depending on size). The credit is claimed on IRS Form 5695 in the tax year the equipment is placed in service.

Puget Sound Energy serves most of King County outside Seattle city limits and offers heat pump rebates from $1,200 for ducted air-source systems to $2,000 for cold-climate certified equipment that meets the Northwest Heat Pump Specification. Income-qualified PSE customers can stack additional rebates through the Home Energy Lifeline Program. PSE also requires the installer to be enrolled in the PSE Trade Ally network, which not every Seattle HVAC contractor is.

Seattle City Light serves the city proper and offers separate heat pump rebates of $800 to $1,500 plus a $200 smart thermostat rebate for ENERGY STAR-certified models. Seattle City Light also administers the Clean Heat program for income-qualified households, which can cover 80 to 100% of a heat pump installation. Both utilities require pre-approval before the install begins; submitting paperwork after the fact disqualifies the rebate.

Washington state's HEAR (Home Electrification and Appliance Rebate) program, funded through the federal Inflation Reduction Act, opened in 2025 and provides up to $8,000 for heat pump installations in qualifying households (under 80% area median income, up to 150% AMI at reduced rebate levels). For King County, 80% AMI for a household of four was $108,800 in 2025, making the program reachable for a substantial share of Seattle homeowners. The Washington State Department of Commerce administers HEAR through approved contractors; verify your installer is on the approved list at commerce.wa.gov before signing.

Seattle permits, code, and inspections

The Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections issues mechanical permits for all AC and heat pump replacements within city limits. The permit is the homeowner's responsibility but is normally pulled by the contractor; verify it is pulled before work begins by checking the Seattle Services Portal at seattle.gov. Unincorporated King County uses King County DPER for permits, and Bellevue, Kirkland, Redmond, and other east-side cities each have their own permit offices with similar requirements.

The Washington State Energy Code (WSEC) governs the technical requirements: Manual J load calculations, minimum equipment efficiency, duct sealing to less than 4 CFM25 per 100 square feet of conditioned area, and refrigerant line set insulation. The 2024 WSEC update tightened residential requirements; quotes submitted in 2025 or 2026 must comply with the newer standard, which some contractors have been slow to adopt. Ask specifically whether the quote complies with the 2024 WSEC and request the duct leakage test result if the existing ducts are being reused.

Seattle has a Sound Transit-adjacent noise ordinance that limits outdoor condenser placement near property lines and bedroom windows. Most modern condensers (Trane XV18, Carrier Infinity, Bosch IDS) operate at 50 to 60 dB at the unit; the Seattle Municipal Code section 25.08 caps nighttime sound at the property line at 50 dB in residential zones and 47 dB in low-density residential. A condenser placed close to a neighbor's bedroom window may need a sound blanket or relocation to pass complaint inspection, which is worth raising with the contractor during the site walk.

Seattle neighborhood considerations

Capitol Hill and First Hill have dense, older housing stock built between 1900 and 1940. Many Capitol Hill homes have no ductwork because they were originally heated by radiators, gravity furnaces, or hydronic baseboard. AC retrofits in these neighborhoods almost always go ductless: a 3 to 4 zone ductless heat pump from Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, or LG runs $9,000 to $16,000 installed. Adding ducts to a Capitol Hill four-square is rarely cost-effective once you factor plaster repair, joist routing, and asbestos abatement in basements built before 1980.

Ballard, Fremont, and Wallingford are mixed Craftsman and bungalow neighborhoods with original 60 to 80-amp electrical service. AC installs in these homes commonly trigger a panel upgrade to 200 amps ($1,800 to $3,500), and the City of Seattle requires a separate electrical permit through SDCI for the panel work. Plan a two-permit, two-inspection project rather than a single visit.

Queen Anne, Magnolia, and parts of West Seattle have salt-air exposure from Puget Sound. Standard galvanized condenser cabinets corrode noticeably faster in these neighborhoods; spec a coil with E-coat or Insulguard treatment on the condenser coil, and budget for cabinet coating maintenance every three to five years. Carrier's Coastal Series and Trane's coastal-package option both address this; the upcharge is $250 to $500 and pays back in equipment longevity.

Beacon Hill, Rainier Valley, and Columbia City have a wider mix of housing ages and tend to have functional ductwork in homes built after 1955. Standard ducted central AC installations in these neighborhoods are the closest Seattle gets to a routine swap, with most projects completing in a single day at the $5,200 to $6,800 mid-range.

Mercer Island, Bellevue, Kirkland, and Redmond have higher equipment-tier expectations and tend to price 8 to 15% above Seattle proper because of contractor demand and HOA-driven aesthetic requirements (condenser screening, line-set chase finishing). Quotes on the east side commonly include variable-speed equipment and zoning controls that Seattle proper would treat as upgrades.

How to find a licensed Washington HVAC contractor

Washington's Department of Labor and Industries licenses HVAC contractors under RCW 18.106 (mechanical) and RCW 18.27 (general contractor registration). A residential AC or heat pump installer needs both: a current L&I contractor registration (verifiable at lni.wa.gov), an active electrical license (06A specialty electrician, or working under an electrical contractor for the disconnect and panel work), and active workers' compensation coverage. The L&I online tool lets you search by business name or UBI number and shows complaints, bond status, and license expiration dates.

Beyond the L&I license, ask for NATE certification on the lead installer (nateex.org has a search tool), EPA Section 608 Universal certification on anyone handling refrigerant (the 2025 A2L refrigerant transition added new certification modules), and current trade-ally enrollment with PSE or Seattle City Light if you are claiming a utility rebate. ACCA Manual J certification is a strong signal that the contractor will run a real load calculation rather than rule-of-thumb sizing.

Get three written quotes. The Washington State Office of the Attorney General publishes a contractor-vetting checklist that is worth reading before the site visits. Each quote should specify equipment model numbers (verify against the AHRI directory), SEER2 and HSPF2 ratings, refrigerant type, line-set length and routing, electrical scope, permit cost, Manual J reference, and commissioning sequence. A quote that lists only "new 3-ton AC, $6,500 installed" is hiding scope and should be rejected on transparency grounds alone.

Red flags during the Seattle quote process: pressure to sign before the Manual J is done, a refusal to itemize permit costs, "we'll handle the rebate paperwork after install" without naming the specific PSE or SCL program, equipment quoted without a model number, and any pricing that depends on cash payment or a same-day signing discount. Honest contractors in Seattle have 6 to 12 week backlogs in summer; same-day availability in July is usually a signal of complaint volume or limited backlog for non-obvious reasons.

How to extend the life of your Seattle AC

Seattle's mild summers and clean coastal air give a properly installed AC or heat pump a realistic 12 to 18 year lifespan, longer than the 10 to 12 year national median. The maintenance routine that gets you there is straightforward. Replace the air filter every 60 to 90 days during cooling season (more often if you have pets, fewer if you have a 4 or 5-inch media filter). Schedule a spring AC tune-up before the first hot week; a Seattle AC tune-up runs $120 to $220 and pays for itself by catching capacitor weakness, contactor pitting, and refrigerant leaks before they trigger a no-cool failure in the middle of a heat event.

Outdoor condenser maintenance in Seattle is mostly about clearing leaves and Douglas fir needles from the coil fins. A garden-hose rinse from inside the cabinet outward (top down) twice per year keeps airflow clean. Do not pressure-wash the fins; aluminum fins bend at 200 PSI and stay bent. Trim shrubs to maintain 24 inches of clearance on all sides and 60 inches above the unit.

For heat pumps specifically, the defrost cycle runs frequently during Seattle's wet winters. A heat pump that ices over and stops defrosting (a common symptom in late January and February) usually has a failed defrost board, a stuck reversing valve, or a low-charge condition. Address it within two to three weeks; running iced for a full month damages the compressor.

A decision framework for Seattle AC buyers

Use the matrix below to narrow your choice before requesting quotes.

Seattle AC and heat pump decision matrix
Your situationRight systemTypical installed cost
Existing ducts, gas furnace under 8 years old, AC-only need14.3 to 15.2 SEER2 central AC$4,500 to $6,800
Existing ducts, gas furnace 12+ years, planning full systemDucted heat pump, HSPF2 9.0+, SEER2 16+$9,500 to $14,000
No ducts, Craftsman or four-square, 2 to 4 zones neededDuctless mini-split heat pump$8,000 to $16,000
All-electric, no gas service, full system replacementDucted or ductless heat pump$9,000 to $16,000
Tight budget, AC-only, baseline efficiency14.3 SEER2 central AC$4,500 to $5,800
Salt-exposed property (waterfront)Coastal-package coil with E-coatAdd $250 to $500

When you call, you will be connected with an HVAC professional in our network who can discuss your specific situation and provide a quote. There is no charge to speak with a pro. Call response times are typically under 30 seconds during business hours.

For broader comparisons across other major metros, the Austin AC installation cost guide walks through the very different Climate Zone 2A sizing and TDLR licensing context, which is useful background for homeowners who have moved from a Sun Belt city and are calibrating Seattle pricing against what they paid before.

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Frequently asked questions about AC installation in Seattle

How much does AC installation cost in Seattle?
Central AC installation in Seattle costs $4,500 to $8,500 fully installed in 2026, with most 1,500 to 2,200 square foot homes paying $5,200 to $6,800 for a 15 SEER2 system. Ducted heat pumps run $7,000 to $13,000 and ductless mini-splits start around $4,000 for a single-zone install. Seattle pricing for AC-only sits 8 to 12% below the national median because of shorter cooling seasons and smaller equipment sizing.
How much does it cost to put AC in a 2000 sq ft house?
A 2,000 square foot Seattle home typically needs 2 to 2.5 tons of cooling capacity, which lands at $5,200 to $7,400 for a 15 SEER2 central AC with matched coil and standard duct connection. If the home does not have existing ductwork, a 3 to 4 zone ductless heat pump for the same square footage runs $10,000 to $15,000. National averages for a 2,000 square foot home cluster around $6,500 to $8,000, so Seattle sits at or slightly below the national midpoint for ducted AC.
What is the $5000 rule for HVAC?
The $5,000 rule is a repair-versus-replace shortcut: multiply the age of the AC or heat pump in years by the proposed repair cost. If the result exceeds $5,000, replacement is usually the better financial choice. A 12-year-old AC with a $500 compressor repair scores $6,000 (replace); a 6-year-old AC with the same repair scores $3,000 (repair). The rule is a starting point, not a substitute for considering efficiency gains, refrigerant phaseout (R-410A is exiting the market), and remaining warranty.
What is the 20 rule for air conditioning?
The 20-degree rule says the difference between outdoor temperature and your thermostat setting should not exceed 20 degrees. On a 95°F Seattle afternoon, setting the thermostat below 75°F asks the AC to work past its design split and causes longer runtimes, higher utility bills, and accelerated equipment wear. A well-sized AC will hold a 20-degree split comfortably; pushing for a 25 or 30-degree split usually signals undersized equipment or duct losses.
Can AC worsen allergies?
A poorly maintained AC can worsen allergies in Seattle by recirculating dust, pollen, and mold spores through dirty filters and damp evaporator coils. A correctly installed AC with a MERV 11 or 13 filter, a properly draining condensate pan, and an annual coil cleaning generally improves indoor allergy symptoms because it reduces outdoor pollen infiltration and lowers indoor humidity. The 2021 Seattle smoke events from regional wildfires showed how much a well-filtered system helps; many Seattle homeowners have since added HEPA filtration to the return-air side.
Do I need a permit to install AC in Seattle?
Yes. The Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections requires a mechanical permit for every new or replacement AC condenser and air handler within Seattle city limits. The permit costs $128 to $215 depending on tonnage and scope, and the post-install inspection is mandatory. King County, Bellevue, Kirkland, and Redmond all have similar permit requirements through their respective building departments.
How long does AC installation take in Seattle?
A straightforward central AC swap on existing ducts completes in 6 to 10 hours with two L&I-credentialed installers. Heat pump installs typically run 8 to 12 hours. Ductless multi-zone installations span 2 to 3 days because each indoor head and line-set routing requires careful penetration sealing. Add 3 to 6 business days for SDCI inspection scheduling, during which the system is operational but not yet finaled.
Should I install a heat pump or central AC in Seattle?
For most Seattle homeowners, a heat pump is the better long-term choice because the same equipment handles cooling and the bulk of winter heating, and Climate Zone 4C is the strongest cold-climate heat pump market in the country. The federal 25C tax credit ($2,000 for qualifying heat pumps) and PSE or Seattle City Light rebates ($800 to $2,000) typically offset the equipment premium. AC-only makes sense when an existing gas furnace is under 8 to 10 years old and structurally fine.
What SEER2 rating is best for Seattle?
For AC-only installations, 14.3 to 15.2 SEER2 is the rational tier in Seattle because the short cooling season limits payback on higher efficiencies. For heat pumps, push to HSPF2 9.0 or higher with SEER2 16+ because the heating-season runtime carries the math, and the federal 25C tax credit requires the higher efficiency thresholds to qualify.
Are there rebates for AC installation in Seattle?
Rebates for cooling-only AC are limited in Seattle. The main incentive stack covers heat pumps: federal 25C tax credit up to $2,000, Puget Sound Energy or Seattle City Light rebates of $800 to $2,000, and the Washington HEAR program up to $8,000 for income-qualified households. Submit utility rebate paperwork before installation begins; after-the-fact applications are rejected.
How long should a new AC last in Seattle?
A properly sized and maintained AC or heat pump in Seattle should last 12 to 18 years, longer than the 10 to 12 year national median because of milder summers and lower compressor cycling. Salt-exposed waterfront homes in Magnolia or West Seattle see shorter lifespans (10 to 14 years) without coastal-package coil protection. The biggest single factor in lifespan is correct Manual J sizing at install.
What is the difference between ducted and ductless heat pumps in Seattle?
Ducted heat pumps use existing or new ductwork to deliver air through registers in each room, similar to a traditional central AC. Ductless heat pumps use wall, ceiling, or floor-mounted indoor units (heads) in individual rooms with refrigerant lines instead of ducts. Many older Seattle homes (Capitol Hill, Queen Anne, First Hill) without existing ductwork are far better candidates for ductless because adding ducts to plaster-walled homes is expensive and disruptive.
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Written by the HVAC Pricing Guide Team

The HVAC Pricing Guide team researches heating and cooling costs across the United States, collecting data from industry surveys, contractor interviews, and thousands of real service quotes. Every guide is independently researched to help homeowners make informed decisions and avoid overpaying.

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